Not all leather is the same

I only truly grasped that not all leather is created equal when I began to delve more deeply into the material. When someone refers to 'leather,' it can signify a wide array of products: from heavy, vegetable-tanned saddlery leather to fine lamb nappa suitable for a jacket. Much like 'fabric' encompasses an entire world – from hand-woven linen and cotton jersey to 3D polyester mesh – 'leather' is merely a broad category with innumerable variants.

For MARAI, we aimed to develop leather trousers in collaboration with paradis collections, utilizing Swiss goat hides that would otherwise be discarded. This project required a leather suitable for apparel: lightweight, soft, supple, yet durable. The vegetable-tanned leather we typically use proved too heavy for this specific application. Consequently, a comprehensive search for an appropriate tannery commenced.⁠

We found what we were looking for in northern Portugal – at a small family business specializing in processing goat and sheep hides. The tannery, now run by Pedro and his brother, produces premium leathers for international brands. Pedro was open to trying out our hides, and we were ready for the adventure.

The tanning process is completely free of chrome and heavy metals, utilizing a plant-based re-tanning with tara. A light finishing protects the leather from moisture without compromising its breathability. This creates a skin-friendly, ecological garment leather that is comfortable to wear yet robust. It remains soft, allows the body to breathe, and maintains its natural temperature regulation.

The finished leather was sent to a small workshop nearby, where the trousers were meticulously crafted by hand. The first edition was recently released as a limited edition. More about the production process will be shared in the next post.